From car to motorbike at 55-60: a buyer's guide for new and returning riders

More and more drivers are switching from car to motorbike at 55 or 60. Some are returning after twenty or thirty years off two wheels, with only a car licence in their wallet. Others are taking their first motorcycle licence, now with the time and money they didn't have at 20. Either way, the questions are the same: which licence do you actually need? What engine size makes sense? Which type of bike suits your body and the way you want to travel now? This guide answers all three, in order.

Why this age group is (re)discovering motorbikes

It's not a passing trend: 55-60 tends to bring more free time, more spending power than in your twenties, and often the memory of a bike you once had and missed. Add to that the frustration of traffic and parking a car for short trips, and the growing appeal of motorcycle touring as a way to travel without the fixed itinerary of a car or motorhome.

Which licence you need (and what a car licence actually gives you)

In the UK, a standard car (category B) licence alone doesn't let you ride a 125cc bike — you need to go through the motorcycle licensing system, starting with CBT.

• CBT (Compulsory Basic Training): from age 17, lets you ride up to 125cc and 11 kW with L plates, no motorways and no pillion passengers. Valid for 2 years, after which you either retake it or stop riding on it — it's a stopgap, not a full licence.
• Category A1 (from 17): up to 125cc and 11 kW, with a full practical test that removes the L-plate and passenger restrictions.
• Category A2 (from 19): motorcycles up to 35 kW.
• Full category A: no power restriction. Direct access from 24 (test on a bike of at least 595cc/50 kW), or the progressive route from 21 after holding an A2 for 2 years, with new practical tests but no need to resit theory if it's still valid.

To compare bikes by body style and use: Motorbike types and categories: do you know them all?

Engine size: why "bigger" isnt automatically "better" at this age

It's tempting to make up for years off the bike with something big and powerful. But what actually matters day to day isn't engine size on its own — it's kerb weight, seat height, and how the bike balances at a standstill or at walking pace, exactly where it's hardest to find your balance again after a long break. A well-balanced 500-700cc bike with good rider aids (ABS, traction control) usually gives more real-world confidence than a bigger, heavier, taller machine.

Which type of bike suits your profile

• Naked/roadster: comfortable riding position, good balance in town and on the open road, straightforward mechanics. A solid, uncomplicated way back in.
• Mid-size adventure/trail: upright, back-friendly riding position and good visibility, though weight and seat height need checking if you're not tall.
• Scooter/maxi-scooter: the most physically accessible option (no gears to worry about, easy to put your feet down), very practical for town and shorter A-road journeys; some maxi-scooters even carry luggage.
• Touring: built for long distances with a pillion and luggage, at the cost of more weight and size to manage at slow speed.
• Custom/classic: looks and feel over practicality, usually demanding more physical effort in slow manoeuvres due to weight distribution.

Shaking off the rust: rebuilding reflexes before the open road

• Take a refresher or advanced riding course even if your licence doesn't require it — many training schools run courses specifically for returning riders.
• Practise slow-speed manoeuvres (tight turns, hill starts, emergency braking) somewhere enclosed before heading out onto the road.
• Invest in full, certified protective gear.
• Check your baseline fitness: arm and leg strength for holding the bike upright at a standstill, and neck flexibility for mirror checks and lane changes.

Before you buy: the test ride and what to check

No spec sheet replaces an actual test ride. At the dealership, check whether you can get both feet down securely (even on tiptoes on taller bikes), whether you can lift it off the stand without excessive effort, and how it handles at walking pace — that's where poor weight distribution shows up most.

Once youve got the bike: you dont have to ride every mile of every trip

With licence, engine size and type sorted, there's one last thing many returning riders only think about once the bike is already in the garage: not every long trip is one you want to spend entirely on two wheels, whether that's down to time, fatigue, or simply bad weather. This is where a foldable motorcycle trailer makes the difference over the classic option of always riding there: you hitch it to your own car, arrive rested at your destination — a campsite, a bike rally, a holiday home — and only unload the bike once you're there, to enjoy the local roads without the motorway miles beforehand. On the way back, it folds down to the size of a large suitcase in the garage. See how it works: our range of foldable motorcycle trailers.

Frequently asked questions

Can I ride a 125cc bike with just my car licence?
Not directly. You'll need CBT at minimum (valid 2 years, with L plates and restrictions), or a full A1 test to ride without those limits.

Which licence should I go for if I've never ridden and want more than a 125?
Category A2, which covers bikes up to 35 kW, with a route to the unrestricted category A after 2 years.

Is it better to start small even if my licence allows more?
If you haven't ridden in years, usually yes: you can always move up to a bigger bike later, but confidence lost is harder to rebuild if your first bike is too much bike for you physically.